Thursday, June 24, 2010
New Crag in Albufeira its not big but well worth a look.
Big thanks to Nuno for showing John and i around,
This crag gets the sun all day and is very Hot so skip it mid summer
but autumn winter and spring will be great and the sea is a stone throw
away. The access is an easy 50mtwalk from the road and the view
from the top of the routes is amazing.The Grades start at 6a
to 8b and are not for the novice climbers,but what a place.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Just southwest of Pueblo, CO one man has built his own castle. Jane and I went there to check it out. It is 40 years work of only one man and his wish to build something for everyone to enjoy. Here I am on the rickety cat walk up to his metal globe. Jane and I are nearly 50 feet up enjoying the scenery and swaying metal structure.
Labels: bishop castle, pizem climbing, rob pizem
Monday, June 21, 2010
If you ever find your self in the Algarve and your up for it!
check out the Mirror,one of the best routes you will find. There are 3 sport routes,Silent running 6b goes straight up the
middle.Small swell,sunny day and the tide was low.Why not! 60mtr abseil to a small ledge with belay point.
West facing so takes some serious beating from the sea,
Some of the bolts are rusty and the route does not see much
traffic,so climb this with Caution!!.. But well worth the risk,just ask John.
Great day,so what you waiting for???.....
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
My former students outside Fulford Cave in Eagle, Colorado. They got a little muddy, tired, scared, bruised and full of new and awesome memories! Great job guys. Hope your car didn't break down on the way home.
Labels: pizem climbing
Monday, June 14, 2010
Last day climbing in Kalymnos! What to do to make it memorable? Sikati Cave!
What to say? Epic crag. Huge hole in the ground, 100m deep at the lowest point, covered in stalactites. My first trip here in 2008 I did the runout classic Lolita 7a. This time I had to step it up and onsighted the long Mort Aux Chevres 7b and also Morgan and its extension Adam, given 8a in the guidebook(!)
The first pitch (given 7c) is mostly very steep 6c-7a climbing to an admittedly hard section. It probably is 7c. Then the extension is only another 8m of climbing and you can start it fresh because there's a great bridging rest at the first anchor. I won't spoil it for you, but it's definitely worth having a try for the extension. I was happy I did.
And then it was time to say farewell to Kalymnos and hello to Turkey. Thanks Kaly, see you next year!
Labels: Climbing Report, Kalymnos
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Just the other day I was able to open up a new mixed route at the P-Wall at Mt. Evans.
It has two bolts and climbs out a steep part of the wall on big holds until the crack eats up cams and nuts.
Take a minute to look at the photos that Dan Gambino took on the actual first free ascent.
http://www.dangpix.com/p_wall_6_10/index.html
I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon. Rob Pizem
And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net http://www.arcteryx.com http://camp-usa.com http://sterlingrope.com http://ColoradoMountainJournal.com http://www.wunderground.com http://climbing.com http://rockandice.com http://deadpointmag.com http://urbanclimbermag.com http://andrewburr.com http://ladzinski.com
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Sunday, June 6, 2010
This is where I have been hanging around on my awesome and durable Sterling Ropes. It may have had a different name back in the day, but when I started playing on the wall nobody spoke up about it's history, nor was climbing up there, so I called it the Possibility Wall or P-Wall for short. I have been able to complete a few lines and there are still plenty to go in. Currently my project is the yellow line out the steepest part of the overhang.
I love hiking out to the wall, seeing the bighorn sheep that I pass almost daily and even trying to keep the marmots from peeing and eating my pack. It can be really windy, cold and uncomfortable, but the climbing is unparalleled and views breathtaking.
Most days that I climb at the P-wall, I get out of the truck and feel a stiff cold breeze the second my door opens. I quickly put my Arcteryx layers on and grab my Arcteryx pack and Camp hiking poles and head to the wall. Hiking through the alpine bowl in my Scarpa approach shoes to get to the wall is pretty casual as it is down hill the entire way. In a few weeks will be covered in alpine tundra flowers of all sorts and colors. It will be amazing! The snow is continuing to melt rapidly and I fear for a very dry season this summer. Then as I approach the wall I will normally see some kind of wild life, sheep, goats, marmots, elk and eagles. Once on top of the wall, I will gaze up and down the valley and take it all in before I head down a warm up climb.
Once I begin climbing, my heart rate raises and levels out quickly. I am normally able to gauge how well I have acclimated by my heart rate during the warm up. Then its time to eat and try the project.
What makes this route challenging for me is the fact that there are very few, if any holds to pull down on. Nearly every hold on the route is a side pull or gaston (meaning vertical) and only half a pad of my finger tips. I have found it difficult to train for this due to being unable to replicate the movements indoors or find other routes that climb similarly. What a joy to find something so unique and challenging. Well, time to head to the P-wall.
I am really glad that you have visited my blog. Thanks and I hope to see and hear from you soon. Rob Pizem
And last but not least, don't forget to check out my favorite sites: http://www.scarpa.net/ http://www.arcteryx.com/ http://camp-usa.com/ http://sterlingrope.com/ http://coloradomountainjournal.com/ http://www.wunderground.com/ http://climbing.com/ http://rockandice.com/ http://deadpointmag.com/ http://urbanclimbermag.com/ http://andrewburr.com/ http://ladzinski.com/
Labels: p-wall, pizem climbing, pizem mt evans
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Dave being belayed by his wife on the cobbles of El Rito, New Mexico. We climbed for two days over the long weekend on these highly featured rock climbs.




Labels: pizem climbing
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Lee Cujes - Interview on Whipper Magazine
Labels: In The Press, Interviews