Sunday, September 26, 2010
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You really can not do an article on an abseiling because nine times out of ten is a good climb in the same area (obviously not true), so here are some interesting places in the South to do both. ..
South Africa
You are pampered in South Africa. There is a wealth of majestic mountains ideal for climbing adventures. How to rank up in South Africa? They use a simple numerical system:
7-12: Beginners climbs that someone in decent shape shold get up. Expect easy rock-friendly area with large handles. 12-16: small foundation and / or steeper rock, but still suitable for beginners and advanced climbers. 16-18: intermediate routes that require more power and experience. To 18: Intermediate to advanced. strong arms and good technique are a must ... The best cliffs in South Africa Rocklands for bouldering, Oudtshoorn, Montagu and Milner for sport routes and Table Mountain and Cederberg for trading routes. Of course there are many others, and I've only covered a handful here ...
The restaurant (after the Universe) can be found in the Waterval Boven reefs in the region of Mpumalanga Drakensberg Mountain Highlands - approximately 3 hours drive from Johannesburg and Pretoria. This region is one of the top climbing destinations in South Africa and was appreciated by many of the best climbers in the world. Most good climbing can be done about the difficulty of 17-27 with a chance to stand up to Grade 33! Some serious climbing then ...
The Oribi Gorge in KwaZulu-Natal was created over millions of years when the river carved its way Umzimkulwana on the Flat Rock, finding faults in the stone and eroding enormously deep and narrow gorges. At the foot of the cliffs, the rocks are one billion years, while the rocks are formed from sandstone deposited about 365 million years ago. Here you can abseil down a 110m mountain or climb one of the many challenging tracks on offer. Another interesting is reduced along the cascade of Howick in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal.
Blouberg Massif is a short walk from both Botswana and Zimbabwe. This is a quartzite mesa 1,200 m is the sun for most of the day, and is considered the toughest Big South Africa's Wall. There are 11 classic routes here, a level of 19. And there are some big names too. Some examples are: Wall of white light (a large wall scary), Psycho Reptiles, White Light, Future Shock, Crack of Adventure, Road to Nowhere, Hey Jude, boar, Tequila Sunrise, Moonshadow Teddy Bear's Picnic and Wow Fuck a name only a few ...
Milner Amphitheatre Western Cape is a double wall of orange rock at different levels in Hex River mountains. He sits beside a waterfall next to the 2000 ft. This is an area with excellent multi-pitch sport climbing and pitch, making it one of the best climbing in South Africa. There is access to this sensitive area so it is best to get in touch with a local club to check the rules and regs MCSA.
And of course there is Table Mountain. How can you talk about climbing in South Africa without taking the famous Table Mountain and the iconic in the discussion. Table Mountain climbing is a very popular pastime. There are well-documented climbing routes of varying difficulties to the many faces of the mountain. As the mountain is part of the Cape Floral Region World Heritage Site which can not be done by running here and only traditional climbing is allowed. business groups also offer abseiling from the top cable station. The cable car also offers a fast descent!
The Giant's Castle, Natal Drakensberg massif offers some technical ice climbing rather as a variant of the climb. These are the highest in southern Africa and spectacular mountain range. It also has the regions only consistently by ice and snow routes. Most documented routes are either pure water or pure snow-ice snow, but there are some streets that require mixed. Giants Castle itself is situated on the south side of the massif. Icing late May to late August. The best time is usually mid to late July. Several major climbs, these peaks and several others made first ascents to wait. Most of the unclimbed falls are steep, the multi-pitch routes, serious skill and determination to win will require.
Before leaving South Africa, I had this disturbing photo I've just met - give you an idea of some of the challenging climbs of the region to offer!
And finally for the Southern African region as a fan of you may have heard in the main railway Maletsunyane Waterfall Lesotho. This is a steep decrease of 204 million along the side of the waterfall in the gorge, but Wikipedia has a height of 192m. As you can imagine the view from the top is magnificent. It has the Guinness World Record for the highest commercially run fell over the world and attracts many international results. And climbing at its best and most exciting.
Australia
The Grampians in Melbourne is internationally renowned for its rock climbing and abseiling experiences and has become a popular destination for adventure. And home to hundreds of exciting climbs, especially on the rugged cliffs of Mount Stapylton, the north end of the park. Adventure halls offer a variety of climbing, including courses from the introductory lessons for beginners and programs related to advanced skills for the experience.
Climbers from across Australia and around the world test their skills on the rock of Mount Arapiles, a stunning peak just west of Horsham that some of the most dramatic and demanding rock formations in Australia. MT. Arapiles has other cool names: Buttress Bard 'Pilot error', lovely High Dive, Deranged, Life in the Fast Lane, No U.S. chicken, Anxiety Directly Slinkin 'Leopard ...
A combination of reliable weather and an extraordinary array of cliffs, reefs and pinnacles have made Mt Arapiles the most popular climbing and abseiling destination in Australia. The mountain is more than 2,000 designated climbs, ranging from simple slopes for beginners to level 30 climbs, the more extreme climbs. With so many climbs, it is difficult to give a short list of the best ever. But some songs stand out above the rest, Sunny Gully, Bullet Buttress, Tiptoe Ridge Route introductory, Exodus, Diapason, Marshmallow Sea, conifers and Parkas Crack In the name of ten.
New Zealand
Golden Bay is considered the best limestone climbing in the Pacific, near Abel Tasman National Park. Important also climb the famous Rock Paton Reserve and Payne's Ford. And one of the best concentrations of single pitch sport climbing in NZ (there are also some trails). The advantage of an incredibly beautiful landscape.
Like many other rocks in New Zealand, Paynes Ford was well and truly discovered. The rock offers steep, solid limestone, and includes some of the toughest climbs in the country. Simon and Middle Mass Climber magazine editor Mark Watson brought a book but relaxed definitive guide to the region. Almost from the opening of passage "For those of you that this had not yet we beter now warn you this is a very dangerous, a place where time stands still and hippies zijn plentiful, people naakt swimming is not accepted ' s life seriously. "It seems almost everyone a place to go climbing, is not it?!
Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado USA. Where the strong come to send (eventually) and the weak come to weep.
First impressions? Way more beautiful than I expected. Rifle is a long canyon with 60-80m high limestone walls on either side (which means there's always shade, even in summer) and a rushing alpine stream running through the middle. The stream is conveniently filled with brown trout so you'll share the campsite with fisherman and camping families. Bring your fishing gear or buy a complete setup for $16 at Wal-Mart like I did.
The camping in Rifle costs $7 a night, plus $5 per car, or buy an annual car pass for $40, which makes sense if you're staying for more than eight nights. Amenities include toilets and firepits. That's about it. The nearest showers and food are in at the town of Rifle which is about 20 minutes away by car, or (better) Glenwood Springs (45 minutes away).
Easy routes? Pfft! Good luck! There's maybe one or two sectors which have a handful of routes in the 5.8 - 5.10 range (17 - 19 or 5c - 6a+). If you're climbing under 7a / 23 / 5.11c I wouldn't bother. Just go elsewhere. But for this grade and upwards (especially the 7c / 27 / 5.12d grades) the place offers some serious quality. To me, the routes all seem hard for their grades. Who cares though when the quality is so good?
Walk-in's vary in length from zero minutes to about 1 minute. Great for lazy sport climbers.
I've found the climbing to be less steep than I'd imagined. With far fewer kneebars damn it. Maybe I'm just not finding them? There's lots of just gently overhanging sectors (which I love) and the routes demand a ton of endurance. There's a lot of polish, so you have to learn to trust those "buttery footholds".
Nearly all the routes have clip and lower anchors which is nice. And nearly all the classics have permadraws like these. These are also nice, although the wear on the biners means that your rope will turn black (from the aluminium oxide) and you should wear gloves when belaying.
So we're one week in and those are my initial ramblings. As for routes, I really enjoyed Beer Run 5.13a and Easy Skankin' 5.12b - both rated as the best of their grade in the wider Crankinverse. And I've fallen in love with The Anti-Phil 5.13b, so I'll see if I can get that sent before we leave.
Enjoy some pics...
Labels: Climbing Report